Travel feature: Skeleton Coast, Namibia

Written by Brendah Nyakudya
Wednesday, 08 February 2012 15:54

Many explorers of old succumbed to the deadly waters of the northern part of the Namibian coast. For those who survived, this stretch of Africa came to be known as the “land God made in anger” or the “gates of hell”.

Legend has it sailors would be able to make it there through the dense fog and heavy surf, but like in the classic tune Hotel California, they could never leave as that very same surf that had thrust them to shore made it virtually impossible to launch their boats back into the ocean, leaving them stranded. Once they had beached with no hope of getting back to sea, daylight would reveal to them the frightening realisation that they are in fact surrounded by nothing but thousands of kilometres of the world’s most notorious and unforgiving desert, which they would need to navigate in order to escape back to civilisation.
 

Today this piece of wilderness has been transformed into a hauntingly beautiful and inviting holiday resort. Namibia’s Skeleton Coast has been turned into a national park with the memories and remnants of all the ships that ran ashore here over the years remaining intact. Whalebones litter the desert landscape, giving the reserve a mystical and intriguing air.
 

This has ultimately become a holiday destination of choice for those of us who are looking for a vacation spot that is not only rich in history and heritage but is also an exquisite showcase of Mother Nature at her best.
 

Skeleton Coast Camp is an exclusive camp resort that is situated in surrounds of untouched African splendour. While it is not your typical holiday resort due to it being located in one of the most remote parts of the country, if not the continent, Skeleton Coast Camp has gained fame for its culture and geological wealth. Due to its inaccessibility and delicate geological make-up, one can’t get there by road, which means visitors have to be flown in. There are flights on Wednesdays and Saturdays only, and only 12 guests can be accommodated per trip.
 

On arrival at Skeleton Coast Camp, one might be startled by the seeming desolation of the landscape. When one is confronted with untouched desert and surrounded by mountains, large rock formations, endless sand dunes and not much else, it is easy to assume the camp would be barren and uninviting, but nothing could be further from the truth. Skeleton Coast Camp and its surroundings surprise you at every turn. The accommodation comprises six Kenyan Meru-style tented rooms, each with spacious luxurious bedrooms and en-suite bathrooms. Each solid-roof tent has its own private deck, and the bedroom has a private patio that opens up to a gorgeous view. After a hot day in the desert sun, you can experience the contemplative bliss of sitting on your private veranda and staring out into the vast Namibian desert while sipping on a cocktail as the gentle sea breeze cools you and soothes your soul.
 

Central to the camp are an open-plan lounge, bar and dining area that allow breathtaking views of the desert. If the weather is pleasant enough, guests are encouraged to have their meals in the open-air “dining room” under a gnarled old Leadwood tree. For those in the mood for something festive, there is the option of sundowners next to sandy cliffs.
 

In and around the resort a natural freshwater spring attracts thirsty wildlife, so if you’re lucky, you’ll get to see desert-adapted elephant, gemsbok, springbok, giraffe, ostrich, brown hyena, Hartmann’s mountain zebra and, occasionally, lion and cheetah.
 

DISCOVERING THE DESERT
 

Appreciating the view is not all that one can do. The staff at Skeleton Coast Camp have incorporated several activities for guests that revolve around discovering this unique, wild and austere environment. They have a fleet of 4x4s that are comfortable no matter what the weather thanks to their pop-top roofs and sliding windows. So you won’t get assaulted by the wind or cold, but you also won’t miss a chance to enjoy the fine midday weather or a glance at the salt-capped mountains.
 

A major highlight is a visit to the Cape Fria fur seal colony, where countless Cape fur seal (Arctocaphalus pusillus) puppies lie around in the sun and sleep the day away when not foraging for fish and crustaceans.
 

If you enjoy walking, you’re in luck as many parts of this unspoilt setting are only accessible on foot as vehicle tracks can damage the fragile environment. The people at Wilderness Safaris, who operate Skeleton Coast Camp, will tell you that the many specially adapted plant species, including lithops and Welwitschia, are best and most often spotted while you’re out walking. Extended day walks with a picnic lunch are incredibly popular.
 

For nature-lovers, Skeleton Coast Camp is a very special place. You will find the scenic splendour captivating and diverse, from roaring sand dunes and windswept plains to towering canyons, saltpans and freshwater springs. Initially thought to be hell by those who didn’t have the ability to look beyond its harsh conditions and find the beauty that lies beneath, the Skeleton Coast is a slice of heaven.