Afro Food: Yamato

Written by Angus Mc Ewan
Wednesday, 05 October 2011 17:57

Inasmuch as Johannesburg is a cosmopolitan city, playing host to citizens from all nine of South Africa’s provinces, Africans from the length and breadth of our continent, and visitors from every other continent on the planet, we remain an ever-curious collective. The opportunities to experience things culturally alternative have increased significantly over the past 20 years, resulting in some exciting and occasionally exquisite dining options.

For your consideration, this time round, we have turned our attention to a Japanese pearl, named Yamato, which can be found on 198 Oxford Road in Illovo. Not unlike other cities of the world, Johannesburg has seen a plethora of sushi bars springing up over the past 10 years, some better than others of course. Some Joburgers might subsequently think that they know a bit about Japanese fare. (For the record, the writer does not fall into this category!)

If you haven’t eaten at Yamato’s table, then do so, because whether you are a seasoned eater of Japanese food or a novice, I reckon Yamato’s food will form the benchmark against which all in Johannesburg will be measured.

Our meal consisted of seven individual and distinct dishes. Some – like the incomparable tuna sashimi (raw fish) and the salmon rose with cucumber – were only a single tantalising slice whilst the others provided more substance and were designed to deliver a combination of colour, presentation, and exquisite flavour.

The first dish was fish avocado tartar, comprising chopped raw fish served with avocado, a touch of garlic and sesame oil. One was salmon, the other tuna, which offered an interesting variation on the theme. The combination of flavours is subtle yet distinct; this dish proved a most satisfying appetiser.

Whilst we were still delighting in this opening, chawan mushi was delivered to the table. Literally translated as “tea cup steam”, this dish is served in porcelain handle-less tea cups. Its basis is a steamed egg custard, within which is a small piece of mushroom, prawn, and chicken. Other traditional ingredients include ginkgo seeds, soya sauce, dashi (stock), and mirin (rice vinegar). Yamato’s interpretation of this dish is excellent, and it provided a different texture and flavour from the first dish, and in fact, from the balance of the meal that was still to come.

Sunomono is a traditional Japanese salad, and ours consisted of seaweed, sliced vegetables and a small selection of two different cuts of raw octopus, crab, and some sashimi dressed in rice vinegar. With our salad we were given four slices of tuna sashimi – and all other sashimi I have thus far tasted disappeared into forgetfulness by comparison. The salad with the rice vinegar took our taste buds in yet another direction and revealed yet more surprises.

Gyoza, hand-made dumplings, originated in Chinese cuisine but have been adopted by the Japanese palate. Pork mince, cabbage, spring onion, garlic and ginger are combined and wrapped in a delicate dumpling pastry and steamed and served with soya, chilli, and vinegar dipping sauces – the effect is fantastic!
The penultimate dish of the night was sushi rice wrapped in salmon sashimi, topped with mayonnaise and cucumber; dipped in soy and wasabi, it was just a taste but what a taste!

Lastly we were offered okonomi yaki, a Japanese-style savoury pancake sprinkled with fish flakes. By themselves these flakes are very fishy, yet when combined with the pancake, the result as a whole is greater than the parts.

We finished our meal with the smoothest green tea I’ve ever had.
The space is intimate and contemporary – I’m hooked! There’s plenty on the menu I have yet to try. I can’t wait!

YAMATO - 198 OXFORD ROAD, ILLOVO, JOHANNESBURG