Restaurants: Fillet Signature Cut - The House of Mediterranean Fillets

Written by Angus Mc Ewan
Friday, 19 August 2011 10:48

It must be said there are more onerous tasks that can befall a person than to seek out, unearth and report back to one’s people on dining gems that exist amongst us in the urban jungle. The nature of this research requires an open mind, a hearty appetite, a willing research assistant and, for this researcher at least, a healthy dose of gratitude. Equipped with these in some measure, we found ourselves at the door of Fillet Signature Cut, located in Douglasdale (near Montecasino and Fourways), upon which we cast the Afropolitan looking glass.
The proprietors of Fillet Signature Cut bring to bear their Mediterranean heritage, a mix of Portugal and Lebanon, on the menu, but as the name of the restaurant states, and with the benefit of a night at their table, I can confidently report that the variety of offerings amount to an ode to that most celebrated cut of beef, the fillet.

The space is open and uncluttered, with a split level providing a raised area in one corner. The two levels are separated by a wall, and a gas “coal” fire runs along one section providing much-needed cosiness in winter. Sliding glass doors open on to a patio where al fresco dining can be enjoyed during summer.
For the first course, there are some familiar-sounding choices ranging from oysters and prawns, Parma ham and melon to fillet carpaccio and beef trinchado. There are also less common choices such as fillet nayeh and steak tartare.

My willing research assistant Maria and I selected the garlic prawns; the menu promises them “drenched in a creamy, spicy garlic sauce and presented with rice”. We also couldn’t resist ordering the fillet nayeh, a first-time experience for us both. The basis of this dish is raw filleted chopped lamb infused with fresh mint, onion and Middle Eastern spices, lightly dressed with olive oil and served with unleavened bread. Raw lamb may be unfamiliar to the South African palate, but let me tell you, this dish did not disappoint. I ate mine wrap-style by rolling the meat in the bread, and it was delicious. First you taste the mint – fresh and distinct – and then the combination of raw onion and the Middle Eastern spices become apparent. The mint softens the onion but doesn’t mask it, and the overall effect is refreshing.

We experimented, creating combinations with chopped chilli, balsamic vinegar and ground pepper. Each was unique, the mint slightly softening the sting of the chilli and the tang of the vinegar but always complementing the other flavours – nice!

Glistening in their creamy, spicy garlic sauce, the prawns encircle the rice, which rests castle-like in the centre of the plate. As with the fillet, the first mouthful delivered a distinct flavour with the spicy element of the sauce leading the way, enough to say “howzit!” but well mannered enough not to numb one’s taste buds and spoil following servings. The sauce was smooth and wrapped itself wonderfully around the prawn meat, the texture of which was crisp and tender, both at once.
We were ready for our mains. The menu offers a traditional 200g fillet steak for R48, which is great value for money, but we focused on the “fillet speciality” section of the menu, offering eight unusual variations. We chose fillet zorba mignon and fillet fromage. The mignons are seasoned with black pepper and oregano, pan-fried in olive oil with mushrooms and olives and topped with feta and a squeeze of lemon.

We requested it medium-rare, and the chef was spot-on. It was succulent and sensual in texture and bursting with flavour. I’d order it again in an instant. The fillet fromage is stuffed with Dutch Gouda and fontina cheese, wrapped with imported Italian pancetta and finished off in their wood-burning oven. It was again perfectly cooked to our medium-rare specifications. The first mouthful was taken without any accompaniments, and the simple flavour brought on by the wood-burning oven was enough by itself. However, we had ordered side order sauces of balsamic reduction with fresh rocket and creamy peri-peri, both of which lent themselves wonderfully to this dish.

A selection of grilled vegetables, creamed spinach, crumbed mushrooms, chips and roast potatoes were also served. The creamed spinach needs a special mention – one could quite easily just eat this dish on its own with a spoon.

Rest assured, there is adequate choice for those not caring for fillet. Look out for melanzana parmigiana – layers of brinjal, spinach, mozzarella and napolitana sauce, baked in their wood-burning oven – on the starter menu. Or the strawberry and blue-cheese salad, which includes avocado, toasted almonds and garlic croutons on a bed of rocket, dressed with sweet chilli and balsamic reduction.

With our research complete and all data processed, we seem to have unearthed another Afropolitan gem!