HQ: An exceptional steak only restaurant

Written by Angus McEwan
Wednesday, 06 July 2011 16:24

Welcome to HQ, where you can have anything you like, as long as it is salad, sirloin and chips. HQ, yes, short for Head Quarters, is one of Johannesburg’s newest and most refreshing restaurants.

Here’s the thing: how many restaurants or other food retail outlets do you know that really only have one main dish on their menu? We live in a “bigger, better, faster, more” kind of world, and as a result our expectations of all we encounter are geared toward this typically global urban reality. Too often this reality stretches thin our discernment and maybe, too, our capacity to be content and adequately fulfilled by the things in which we engage.

HQ really does only serve its clientele steak and chips, simplicity of choice no mistake. But they have an unfailing ability to deliver to each diner an exceptional piece of meat, beautifully cooked, each and every time. The concept is loosely based on a Parisian restaurant, Le Relais de L’Entrecôte, renowned for serving high-quality meat. HQ, situated in the “central” hub of restaurants and bars in Sandton, has sister restaurants in Cape Town.

The meat

What’s so special about HQ’s steak, especially when general opinion is likely to be that sirloin is a tougher and therefore less popular cut than fillet? HQ sources its beef from the Namibian Meat Company where the cattle are ranched free-range, which is to say they eat grass, as is the original design, and are not grain fed in any way. The next critical factor is the period taken to age the meat, close to 60 days in most cases.

As an aside, it was interesting for me to learn that at the centre of the farming of these cattle exists a community upliftment programme. Local community members receive ongoing employment and skills development in the farming environment, with portions of the profits being channelled back into the community.

But back to the meat. With meat of this quality, you’d think the pressure is on in the kitchen to deliver each steak precisely cooked to request.

The dining experience

Let’s leave that thought on the back burner, so to speak, and let me take you through the dining experience.

HQ’s space is split between an area of inside seating, with its bar, and an outside section spread across an open terraced area, which is where we were seated.
It was a lovely mild evening, and straight away I found the setting relaxing. Created through attractive “balloon” lanterns, the ambient lighting, which accentuated features such as the lovely stonework running the length of the outside of the restaurant, was comfortable, soothing even. Upon sitting, I couldn’t help but notice that the table cloths are sheets of brown paper, upon which is printed HQ’s simple welcome, part of which was quoted at the beginning of this story. This is oh so practical for diners, who are wont to use it as a notepad.

Lavash was brought to the table. These are thin strips of flat bread, each delicately flavoured with a choice of cumin, Cajun spice, poppy seed, sesame seed, or oregano and thyme.

As with all the fare, the lavash was simple and, importantly, not heavy, saving your taste buds and digestion for what is yet to come.

The starter was the same for us all – a green salad, consisting of a mixture of iceberg and cos lettuce, sprinkled with toasted pine nuts, slivers of parmesan, all lightly covered in their vinaigrette. Again simple, with delicate flavour.

By this stage much of the day’s tension had dissipated. Conversation was flowing. I’ll admit I’m not someone who eats steak regularly, but I know what I like, and I usually order my steak medium-rare, in the hope that it provides me with the right balance of succulence and texture for my palate.

Our steaks arrived. Layering each steak is HQ’s “cafe de Paris” butter, its composition a closely guarded secret. The only other accompaniment is HQ’s pomme frites, which are lightly salted before arriving at the table, so I recommend tasting before adding any more.

The moment of truth had arrived. The first smooth cut revealed a lovely pink interior – a promising start. I took the first mouthful slowly, getting acquainted with the fusion of flavour. For me the texture was ideal and the flavour unusual. Subsequent mouthfuls did not disappoint; each one demonstrated consistency. I found myself taking my time with each mouthful, having to work just the right amount with my chewing. This may seem an odd observance, but my point is that this meal had me paying attention to my food, thus giving me a richer, more satisfying experience.

Oh, and their chips are great, too.

We were offered some choice come dessert time. I tried the crème brûleé, my dining partner had the chocolate fondant, and we were both delighted. Next time I might try the cheese cake or perhaps the lemon tart.

HQ delivered a dining experience that was simple yet sophisticated, balanced and very satisfying with a total absence of flamboyance, which I appreciated. I enjoyed every mouthful and felt replete as I left. Perhaps the only thing lacking at the end of the evening was the opportunity to stroll the banks of a majestic river and contemplate the wonder of all things.

Physical address: 24 Central, Corner Fredman Drive and Gwen Lane
Telephone: 011 783 0924
Cuisine: Bistro, grills
Ambience: Hip & happening, contemporary cool
Opening times: 11.30am to 10.30pm (Mon to Sat)