Culinary Culture: POP Culture

Written by Vincent Verrydt
Wednesday, 06 July 2011 17:28

“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes, I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it if I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.” – Madame Bollinger, one of the “grande dames” of French Champagne (1884-1977)

Champagne. This one word transcends all language barriers and has one universally accepted meaning – good times! It is the bubbly governing body of any celebration and has firmly positioned itself at the heart of style and elegance. And according to popular belief, we have the feisty monk Dom Pérignon to thank (although the British may dispute this fact).

Recognised as the original creator of Champagne in the 1600s, Dom Pérignon’s first sip of his creation was so heavenly that it culminated in the words, “I am drinking the stars!”

In the years that followed it became clear that the monk’s true talent was his ability to blend. He successfully mixed grapes from different vineyards, from different locations, with varying ripeness and flavour. And through this careful blending process, Pérignon managed to create a relatively consistent flavour – bb a flavour fit for royalty.

In 1715, Philippe Duc d’Orléans became regent of France, and almost immediately the corks started popping and the bubbly began to flow. This was the start of France’s most extravagant, hedonistic eras – one of unapologetic self-indulgence.

And although Dom Pérignon and Philippe Duc d’Orléans bought into the bubbles, not everyone did. Early winemakers of the Champagne region of France didn’t want effervescent wine. They were trying to make still wine, but the unwanted bubbles kept creeping in due to the weather conditions of the far north region of France.

They say the sudden drop in temperature stopped the wine’s fermentation process. Once bottled, the partial fermentation would then start up again when the temperature became warmer. The build-up of carbon dioxide created intense pressure inside the bottles, and often, cool and calm cellars became a war zone with exploding bottles and flying corks. If, however, the corks managed to retain their dutiful positions, the secondary fermentation created bubbles.

With no other options these winemakers decided instead to spin the bubbles into positive PR. They marketed the festivity of the pop and the fabulousness of the fizz and voilà, Champagne hit the big time, becoming our current symbol of celebration!

Grapes 101
Champagne is often a blend of both white and black grapes. Champagne made with only black grapes is called blanc de noir (white from black). Blanc de blanc (white from white) means the grapes are all white grapes, specifically Chardonnay. Rosé champagne gets its colour from still red wine being added to the bottle.

Best with…
The best thing about Champagne is its versatility. It can be served at any time of a day and at any meal. Elegant starters, such as oysters and caviar, are best with dry Champagnes. The semi-dry sparkling wines are suitable for a brunch, a lunch and a salad. The sweeter sparkling wines are perfect for desserts.

Champ of a Salad
Rosa tomato, watercress and gooseberry salad with a Champagne and watermelon sorbet
Prep time: four hours
Serves: four

Sorbet
250g watermelon, cubed (seeds out and skin off)
120ml Champagne
80g castor sugar
2 Tbsp lemon juice
Zest of half a lemon

Method for purée: Combine the cubed watermelon and lemon juice, and blend to make a purée.
Method for syrup: In a heavy pan combine the Champagne, sugar and lemon zest. Dissolve the sugar over a low heat, stirring occasionally. Once the sugar has dissolved, increase the heat and allow to boil for three to four minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Method for sorbet: Add the sorbet purée to the syrup and blend using a handheld blender. Freeze for an hour. Remove from the freezer and blend (this will break up the solid ice crystals) and return to the freezer. Repeat this process every hour for a couple of hours until a smooth texture is obtained. Place into an airtight container and freeze until needed. Use an ice-cream scoop to ball the sorbet when needed.

Salad
200g rosa tomatoes
1 red onion (peeled)
100g watercress (can substitute with wild rocket or baby-spinach leaves)
100g green beans (can substitute with asparagus or mange tout)
100g gooseberries (can substitute with seedless grapes or strawberries)
2 Tbsp olive oil
Maldon salt
Cracked black pepper

Method for salad: In a pan, heat the olive oil and add the gooseberries.
Pan fry, gently tossing the gooseberries until the skins burst slightly. Remove from heat and allow to cool (heating allows the natural sugar levels of the gooseberries to increase). Poach the green beans in boiling salted water until al dente.

Cool under cold water to prevent discolouring. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl, season to taste and drizzle with a good olive oil if you like.

Serve: Serve salad in small china bowls and top with a small scoop of Champagne and watermelon sorbet. Serve immediately.

PS: This salad is a great with grilled fish.

Enjoy!

For more ideas go to www.theculinary.co.za